A Fish Tale from God’s Own Country

As I stand in my kitchen, the aroma of spices and banana leaves transports me back to my childhood in Kerala. Today, I am sharing a recipe that has been passed down through generations in my family: Meen Pollichathu, or as we lovingly call it, Vazhai Ilai Meen.

Growing up in God’s Own Country, fish was more than just food; it was a way of life. My ammamma (grandmother) would say, “A meal without fish is like a day without sunshine.” And oh, how right she was!

Our family’s Meen Pollichathu isn’t just a dish; it’s a celebration of Kerala’s vibrant flavors and traditions. The magic lies in the humble banana leaf, which imparts a subtle, earthy essence that no fancy cooking technique can replicate.

Now, let me let you in on our family secret. While many recipes call for karimeen (pearl spot fish), we have always used whatever fish the day’s catch brings. My amma (mother) would say, “The fish chooses you, not the other way around!” This adaptability is what makes our recipe special.

Here’s how we bring Ingredients:

• 5 pieces of fresh fish
• Banana leaves, as needed
• 2 tbsp oil for frying

For the marinade:

• 1 tsp red chilli powder
• 2 tsp ginger-garlic paste
• 1 tsp pepper powder
• ½ tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• 1 tsp thick tamarind paste
• 1 tsp oil
• Salt to tastethis delicacy to life

Method:

1. Start by giving the fish a spa treatment – clean and wash the pieces in water mixed with turmeric and curd.
2. Prepare the marinade by mixing all the ingredients listed. This fiery blend is our family’s signature – a perfect balance of heat, tang, and warmth. Apply this masala paste generously on the fish pieces and let them rest in the refrigerator for an hour.
3. Meanwhile, prepare the banana leaves. Wash and dry them, then cut into large squares. Here’s a tip from amma: if the leaves are too stiff, quickly pass them over a flame to make them more pliable.
4. Now comes the art of wrapping. Place a marinated fish piece in the centre of each leaf and fold to create a neat parcel. Tie with twine or thread. As a child, I would watch in awe as amma deftly folded these, creating neat little parcels. “Fold with love,” she would say, “for the leaf guards the fish like a mother.”
5. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a non-stick pan. Arrange the fish parcels and cook covered on low heat for about 5 minutes on each side. Flip carefully and repeat the process 2-3 times until the fish is cooked through, about 20-25 minutes in total.

As the fish cooks, the sizzle and aroma that fill the kitchen are enough to make any Malayali homesick! The flavours meld and intensify, creating a dish that’s greater than the sum of its parts.

When we finally unwrap these little green treasures, the steam carries with it the essence of Kerala – the backwaters, the spice gardens, and the love of a family gathered around a meal.

This dish isn’t just about taste; it’s about memories and heritage. Every time I make Meen Pollichathu, I’m not just cooking; I’m telling a story – our story – one fragrant, flaky bite at a time.

Rtn. Sangeetha Pradeep

Event Planner & Make over Artist

Secretary, Rotary Club Of Chennai Radiance